Chinese jewelry designers and French designers seem to have a difference.
At a jewelry forum hosted by the Chinese high-end jewelry brand TTF, the ideas of Chinese designers and French designers look different. Wu Fenghua, global president of TTF, is also the designer of his own brand. He regards jewelry as a carrier of culture, and French jewelry designers seem to be more willing to emphasize that jewelry is just jewelry itself.
An interesting part of the difference occurred in the use of the lotus element. In the view of TTF owner Wu Fenghua, lotus is the most Chinese symbol, and it should be applied to jewelry creation, but he does not tend to show the lotus naked. Lotus represents the lofty realm of Chinese literati "getting out of the mud and not dyeing". It is supposed to be a concept, not just a single element. Chinese people's love for lotus can help it derive various forms. However, several French designers who participated in the Jewelry Forum agreed that Lotus is a lotus flower. It is a figurative carrier. What jewelry does is how to use technology to make the lotus look more vivid, in other words, more like a lotus flower. It only presents the most specific details that consumers may like. “Deductive†is something that Chinese jewelry brands have always liked to do. From the beginning of the year, TTF is cooperating with the Chinese Ministry of Culture to hold the theme exhibition of the Year of the Zodiac. For this magnificent exhibition, TTF invited many designers and fashions. The people participated in the design and production and placed the exhibition at the Chinese Cultural Center in Paris. It seems that this businessman has shouldered more serious tasks than making money. That is to pass on Chinese culture. Chinese designers obviously have a lot of ideas about horses. They make jewelry more like a rich art. The work, including Su Mang, vice president of the fashion group, also designed a tree horse logo inspired by “twigsâ€. Other young artists extracted the horse head as a brooch or bracelet. You need to savor and look for the elements of the horse in these works. This level of fun is no less than a spectacle of the Chinese landscape painting.
French designers are much simpler. Tierry is a French businessman. He works in Hong Kong. He brings his own European brands, including the porcelain brand HAVI-LAND, to participate in this A jewellery exhibition named after the French-Cultural Exchange, a group of horse-shaped ornaments made of crystals are placed in front of the booth. This is a very obvious image of a horse. The only thing that needs to be worked out is that red and white, even black horses. Is the use of the same material as crystal? Are they made in the same way? There are also some more well-known brands in the exhibition, including the watch that VanCleef & Aprel will engrave on the dial, and the image of the polo on the back of Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Without exception, the image of the horse is quite clear and vivid.
This zodiac-themed exhibition provides a good opportunity to observe the differences in design concepts between Chinese and French designers. This difference has always existed. A few years ago, Taiwanese jewellery brand Fu Yu, which was highly sought after by mainland ladies, used jade as the main design material. It also relied on the Chinese concept to design a variety of Chinese jewelry.
Since Fu Yu designer believes in Buddhism, almost all works have a strong Zen taste. “Big Skyâ€, “Roots of the Windâ€, etc., can be judged immediately by name only. This is a work from China. Even if the brand and the Forbidden City of Taiwan cooperate to launch a commercial jewelry series, the design inspiration comes from the ancient Chinese court. Each piece of jewellery has been given a variety of meanings. It is also based on the profound interpretation of traditional Chinese culture by these jewellery artworks. In 2011, the Palace Museum collected two masterpieces of jade art created by the brand – “One Hundred Years of Good Together†and “One Sweet and Dessertâ€.
However, not all Chinese products reveal such a fairy. Cindy Chao, who has appeared on foreign red carpets, is a Chinese Taiwanese Cindy Chao. Throughout her works, it is difficult to see Chinese symbolic design, and it is more biased towards the foreign-like figurative style. At the auction, Cindy Chao’s ruby ​​ring shot for $3.28 million, and on this year’s big goldfish brooch, it’s already possible to see the designer’s desire to make life-like jewelry. 4000 diamonds are set in a titanium-made chassis using snowflake inlay technology. The chassis is plated to create a gradient blue, and the gradient part of the diamond uses different colors of sapphire. The goldfish has multiple tails and can be dexterous. Swing, the eyes are large emeralds. It is said that the reason for the birth of this piece of jewelry is because a jewelry supplier with his big emerald to find Cindy Chao himself, I hope she can completely retain this diamond. There are stones first, and then jewelry based on stone, is the work style of many foreign independent jewelry designers.
At the TTF Jewelry Forum, a female jewelry designer who had designed for LV had to face the same situation in her work. Before the design began, she was asked to incorporate the classic LOGO design into the design. Among them, Bulgari's several classic products require designers to integrate the brand image into the jewelry from the beginning. Some young jewellery brands in China are learning to establish a clearer brand image. The Hong Kong jewellery brand QEELIN, which is owned by the Kering Group, is the main product image of Hulu and Panda. It has both Chinese characteristics and easy production. But considering the half foreign background of Qeelin's founding (one of the two founders is a foreigner), foreign jewellery designers always look from a beginning to a more pragmatic perspective, especially for big brands. Designers, the space is always smaller.
At present, domestic consumers seem to be more willing to pay for foreign designs. Apart from the factors of brand value, people are more willing to consume jewelry more easily, and pay more attention to the aesthetics rather than cultural functions it provides. People are more and more concerned about the value of jewelry crafts, not just ideas. The domestic jewelry brand TTF is also aware of this, which is why it will choose the design headquarters in Paris, because it is provided here worldwide. The best craftsman and the most recognized design. Although Cindy Chao, who specializes in art jewellery, lives in the United States, the goldfish brooch mentioned above has also been specially visited in Geneva and inlaid by local artisans.
The only one who can now walk freely between the real and the virtual is Hong Kong designer Wallace Chan. Since he was invited to participate in the Paris Biennale two years ago, his popularity has made a qualitative leap in Europe. In the past few decades, he has been studying the method of jewellery mosaic, and finally invented the unique world-class cutting technique. His works adopt a very oriental Buddhist image, but they combine the most western skills, and finally received two Welcome to the world, Faye Wong's wedding ring comes from his hand.
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